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Bulbs for naturalizing
For all you potential bulb planters out there, it's not necessarily too late.
Bulb culture . . .What to plant?
(Once I even discovered dwarf iris beginning to bloom in their original purchase sack and put them in the ground in early spring! Where I live, those bulbs are supposed to be planted in November. They still put on a fine display. I don't recommend that practice, however.)
Not having learned my lesson the first time, I recently discovered some Acidanthera bulbs. (Yes, they were in their original purchase sack, and they were sprouting.) They should have been planted in early summer. I now have them crowded in a couple of pots in the greenhouse under lights, and they're looking healthy and green. If all goes well, I'll have some beautiful fragrant flowers after a while.
"Pls, help
me, Sherry. My hubbie have prepared a big round spot in our front yard for
a bulb garden. We want it to bloom all spring long. Can it be possible,
and how? We are amateurs that love flowers, specially bulbs. We would
like it to come back every year, if possible. Any ideas on these - I
am sure you do!!
Yours trully, Ginella"
Hello, Ginella! Thank you for visiting my website.
Bulbs are one of the most satisfying things to plant--a grand result from very little effort. Definitely it's possible to have bulbs blooming over a long period. If you choose a wide variety, you may get flowers from February or April through June and beyond!
For bulbs that come back year after year, be sure to get older, species or heirloom varieties (I will recommend some below.) Also, in catalogs or store display descriptions, look for the words "naturalizes well" or "reliable/good for naturalizing". That includes just about any Narcissus (Daffodil), large or small and more other bulbs than not.
Sometimes creatures such as voles like to snack on bulbs (and they definitely won't come back after that). Daffodils are poisonous to them. Planting tulips deeper (8 to 10 inches) will put them out of the way of the voles. Also, try planting your bulbs with a handful of sharp crushed gravel. Voles don't like that, either. The gravel will also encourage good drainage around your bulbs.
It's very important to plant your bulbs in an area with very good drainage. Bulbs don't like to sit in swamps. Amend your soil with sand or very fine crushed gravel if necessary. Perlite will work too.
Be sure to add bonemeal, bloodmeal, kelp meal and compost to the soil when you plant (or buy some organic bulb food). Thereafter, fertilize your bulbs each autumn with this same mixture as a top dressing scratched into the soil a bit. If you forget to fertilize in autumn, give your bulb leaves a foliar feeding of kelp emulsion in spring after they've grown some leaves.
Remember that after blooming, you must keep watering the bulbs regularly and allow the leaves to make food for the bulbs via photosynthesis. That food will be stored in the bulb for next year's flower. DON'T chop off the leaves until they are YELLOW. Gardens with lots of bulbs can look sloppy some of the time, but you grow accustomed to it. (Actually, my whole garden looks sloppy MOST of the time, and bulbs aren't the only reason! I have fun, though.) When in bloom, the bulbs are spectacular.
Bulbs look best when massed. Plant large numbers of one type and color together for greatest effect. Also try two highly contrasting colors (such as white and red or blue and yellow). If you mix things up too much, it will blend into something not as interesting color-wise from a distance. DON'T plant bulbs in spindly single rows--it looks skimpy. If you can only afford a few expensive bulbs, plant them all together, not scattered about. Plant masses of inexpensive bulbs such as daffodils or grape hyacinths and upgrade as you are able to each year. (Not that there is ANYTHING wrong with daffodils and grape hyacinths!)
(All of these will naturalize.)
VERY EARLY, EARLY, and MID SPRING
. . . MID to LATE SPRING
LATE SPRING to EARLY SUMMER . . . LATE SPRING
to MIDSUMMER
MID to LATE SUMMER . . . AUTUMN
. . . SOURCES
Eranthis hyemalis (Winter Aconite),
height 4 to 6 in; spacing 2 inches; color yellow; sun, shade or partial shade; zones 3 through 9. Note: Snow Drops and Iris reticulata bloom at the same time as this flower.
Galanthus nivalis (Snow Drops),
height 4 to 6 inches; spacing 2 inches; depth 3-4 inches; color white; sun, shade or partial shade; zones 3 through 9. Note: Double variety also available--'Flore Pleno' .
Chinodoxa luciliae (Glory of the Snow),
height 4 to 6 in; spacing 2 inches; depth 3-4 inches; color blue; sun, shade or partial shade; zones 3 through 9. Note: Pink and blue varieties also available.
Crocus (any kind),
height 3 to 4 in; spacing 3-4 inches; depth 4-5 inches; colors blue, white, yellow, purple/violet and combinations; sun, shade or partial shade; zones 4 through 9. Note: The bontanical/species/Snow crocuses are smaller and bloom earlier than the "Giant" types.
Iris reticulata (Dwarf Iris),
height 4 to 6 in; depth 4 inches; spacing 2-4 inches; color blue, purple, white and combinations; sun, shade or partial shade; zones 4 through 9. Note: Another dwarf iris--Iris danfordiae is hardy to zone 5, color is yellow.
Tulips (botanical or species types), also Gregii, Kaufmanniana, Tulipa tarda,
height 6 to 8 in; spacing 6 inches; depth 4-5 inches; colors red, yellow, orange, lilac, apricot, white and combinations; sun, shade or partial shade; zones 3 through 8. Note: Some are fragrant, some produce multiple flowers.
Anemone blanda (Greek Windflowers),
height 4 to 6 in; spacing 3-4 inches; depth 4 inches; colors blue, white, pink; sun, shade or partial shade; zones 3 through 9 (mulch in zones 3 and 4). Note: open when sun is out, bloom over long period--4 to 6 weeks.
Scilla siberica (Siberian Squill),
height 4 to 6 in; spacing 4-6 inches; depth 5 inches; colors blue, white, pink; sun, shade or partial shade; zones 3 through 9. Note: White form 'Alba' also available.
Puschkinia libanotica (Striped Squill)
height 4 to 6 in; spacing 2 inches; depth 3-4 inches; color very pale blue with slightly darker blue stripe at center of each petal; sun, shade or partial shade; zones 3 through 9. Note: open when sun is out, bloom over long period--4 to 6 weeks.
Muscari armeniacum (Grape Hyacinth),
height 6 to 76 in; spacing 2 inches; depth 3-4 inches; color blue; sun, shade or partial shade; zones 3 through 9 (mulch in zones 3 and 4). Note: Other varieties available. Muscari botryoides 'Album' is white, 4 to 6 inches; Muscari comosum 'Plumosum' has purplish plume-like flowers, 4 to 6 inches high.
Fritillaria meleagris (Guinea Hen Flowers),
height 10-12 inches; spacing 5-6 inches; depth 5-6 inches; colors white, purple checkered; sun, shade or partial shade; zones 3 through 9. Note: Bell shaped flowers. There are other small Fritillarias available. Try F. Assyriaca, native to Iraq and Iran, c. 1874 with purple-maroon flowers with a bronze-on-gold interior with tiny black lines. Plant in partial shade.
Double Early tulips,
height 10 to 12 in; spacing 4-5 inches; depth 5-6 inches; colors red, white, yellow; sun, shade or partial shade; zones 3 through 8. Note: Look like peonies when open.
Narcissus, dwarf type daffodils,
height 6 to 8 in; spacing 5 inches; depth 3 inches; colors white, yellow, orange and combinations; sun, shade or partial shade; zones 4 through 9. Note: Some are fragrant, some produce multiple flowers, some double flowers.
Narcissus, larger type daffodils,
height 12 to 18 in; spacing 6 inches; depth 6 inches; colors white, yellow, orange and combinations; sun, shade or partial shade; zones 3 through 9. Note: Some are fragrant, some produce multiple flowers, some double flowers.
Narcissus, larger type daffodils,
height 12 to 18 in; spacing 6 inches; depth 6 inches; colors white, yellow, orange and combinations; sun, shade or partial shade; zones 3 through 9. Note: Some are fragrant, some produce multiple flowers, some double flowers.
Tulipa (Tulip) - all of the larger types,
height 12 to 30 in; spacing 5-6 inches; depth 6-10 inches; colors red,
white, pink, yellow, orange, apricot, almost black, purple/violet, pink
& green and other combinations; sun, shade or partial shade; zones 3
through 9. Note: Some are fragrant, some produce multiple flowers, some
double flowers. There are lily flowered tulips, fringed tulips, parrot tulips,
"broken color" or sort of striped tulips (like the old Rembrandt
type), peony flowered tulips. You could buy tulips all day long and not
get two the same!
The larger tulips are less likely to naturalize. Planting them at
maximum depth may help. You can always put groups of them in with your other
bulbs for a very showy effect even though they may not be long-lived.
Erythronium (Dogs Tooth Violet, Trout Lily, Fawn Lily),
height 10-12 inches; spacing 4 inches; colors yellow, white, blue, pink, purble, combinations; sun, shade or partial shade; zones 3 through 9. Note: Lily like flowers.
Fritillaria imperialis (Crown Imperial Fritillaria),
height 24 in; spacing 8-10 inches; depth 6-7 inches; colors orange, yellow; sun or partial shade; zones 5 through 8. Note: Very dramatic, bundle of bell-like flowers all around near the top of the stem with a "crest" of green leaves on top. There are other dramatic less common large Fritillarias available. Try F. Persica with plum colored flowers, first introduced in Turkety in 1753.
Dutch Iris,
height 16-22 in; spacing 6 inches; depth 6 inches; colors blue, violet, yellow, white & yellow, other combinations; sun or partial shade; zones 5 through 9 (mulch in colder areas).
Bearded or German Iris,
height 30-36 in; spacing 15 inches; depth just below surface (not strictly a bulb--top of rhizome should be exposed when planted); colors--just about everything except bright red, I think, with LOTS of combinations; sun or partial shade; zones 4 through 10. Note: Foliage looks good most of summer. Flowering period is usually short.
Siberian Iris (no beards here),
height 2-4 feet, spacing 2 feet, colors as in bearded iris, prefer full sun, but can have a little shade, especially in hot climates. MUST have good drainage. Have grass-like foliage that forms dense clumps. Need two to three years to become established. Don't judge by first year's bloom.
Spuria Iris (no beard),
height 3-4 feet, spacing 2-3 feet, colors as in bearded iris, prefer full sun. Need moisture in spring and for a month after bloom. No need for watering them during the summer. Best performance begins third year after planting. Leave undisturbed for years. They will form large clumps. Blooms have delicate appearance.
Allium,
heights range from 6 inches to 4 feet! Plant smaller varieties 3-4 inches apart and 4 inches deep. Larger varieties 6-8 inches deep and 8-10 inches apart. Colors white, yellow, purple, pink, greenish, and combinations. Generally hardy zones 4 through 9. Note: Lots of different flower forms, from tight formal globes or spidery delicate types to loose informal clusters.
Hardy Lilies (Asiatic Hybrids),
3 to 4 ft high; space 12 inches; depth 7 inches; colors, all except blue, I think, including many combinations; zone 3 through 10. Note: These are not the fragrant types, but they naturalize well.
Chinese Trumpet Lilies (Aurelian Hybrid Lilies),
3 to 6 feet high, depending on variety; space 12 inches; depth 6 inches; colors, white, yellow, pink, maroon, copper, apricot & combinations. Note: These will naturalize, but some may need staking because of their height and large flowers.
Eremurus (Foxtail Lily),
height 2-7 feet; colors yellow, orange, white, pink; zones 4-8. Note: Taller ones will probably need staking due to their height, but certainly make spectacular cut flowers. Root systems of these bulbs can be 1 1/2 feet across.
Allium stellatum (Prairie Onion)
height 10 inches; color rose pink; hardy to zone 5. Note: begins blooming in July and continues into November. Clumps of flattened leaves will grow earlier to feed the bulb.
Allium thunbergii
height 6-12 inches; color pink; hardy to zone 4. Note: blooms late September into November.
Sschizostylis coccinea
height 1-2 feet; colors scarlet, white, pink; hardy to zone 7. Note: Needs a long warm season. Be sure to water them in summer. Beautiful cut flowers that often bloom on into winter. Varieties 'Alba' and 'Mrs. Haggerty' available.
Autumn flowering Crocus
height 3 to 4 in; spacing 3-4 inches; depth 4-5 inches; colors blue-violet, lavender, mauve/pinkish lavender. Hardy in most zones, but prefer cooler climates.
C. speciosus is blue-violet, very showy; blooms in October. Other varieties available in lavender and mauve.
C. kotschyanus is pinkish lavender or lilac; blooms in September.
C. sativus is the SAFFRON CROCUS (harvest your own!); color lilac with orange-red stigma, not a showy flower. Note: To get good harvests, divide corms as soon as leaves die down each year. Replant them in soil improved with compost, bonemeal, bloodmeal and kelp. Plant a low-growing groundcover with the bulbs so you won't dig them up when they're dormant. Harvesting saffron is easy. Pick off the stigmas as soon as the flowers open. Dry them thoroughly, then store in small glass or plastic containers.
Crocus laevigatus is hardy to zone 7, has a sweet fragrance, and blooms October into winter. Color is lavender.
Amaryllis belladonna (Belladonna Lily, Naked Lady)
height 2-3 feet; color pink, hardy zones 4-24. Note: Dormant in late spring and early summer. Clusters of 4 to 12 trumpet shaped fragrant flowers may appear as early as August atop bare reddish brown stalks. Then large straplike leaves form in clumps 2-3 feet across and persist through winter. Grows just about anywhere with no supplemental irrigation as long as it has very good drainage. Should be planted just after bloom period. Don't disturb or divide clump unless necessary--blooming may be interrupted.
Where I live (Portland, Oregon, USA), it's now too late to mail order bulbs for autumn planting, but there are plenty available locally. However, this list is useful for getting catalogs for SPRING BULB PLANTING and then you'll be on the mailing list for the autumn catalogs. Have fun!
Dutch Gardens
US address: PO Box 200, Adelphia, NJ 07710-0200
telephone 1-800-818-3861
Holland address: Vennestraat, 2160 AA Lisse-Holland
Catalog is full of great photographs.
John Scheepers, Inc
23 Tulip Drive
Bantam, CT 06750
tel 860-567-0838
fax 860-567-5323
Great selection, but expensive.
Van Engelen Inc
23 Tulip Drive
Bantam, CT 06750
tel 860-567-8734
fax 860-567-5323
Buy in larger quantities here.
Schreiner's Iris Gardens
3625 Quinaby Road NE
Salem, OR 97303
tel 503-393-3232
fax 503-393-5590
Bearded iris, an incredible selection--dwarf ones, too!
Chehalem Gardens
Tom & Ellen Abrego
PO Box 693
Newberg, OR 97132
tel 503-538-8920
Siberian and Spuria Iris (They were recommended by Schreiner's.)
The Daffodil Mart
Brent & Becky Heath
7463 Heath Trail
Gloucester, VA 23061
tel 1-800-ALL-BULB (Weekdays 9-9, Sat & Sun 9-6)
fax 1-800-420-2852 (anytime)
They have 9 varieties of Erythronium, 12 varieties of Species Fritillaria, 6 of Eremurus. Great variety of everything, and lots of bulbs specifically recommended for indoor and greenhouse forcing.
Holland Bulb Farms
PO Box 220
Tatamy PA 18085-0220
tel 1-800-283-5082
Nothing unusual, but they have good prices.
Van Bourgondien's
245 Farmingdale Road
PO Box 1000
Babylon, NY 11702-9004
tel 1-800-622-9997
fax 1-516-669-1228
email: retail@dutchbulbs.com
The Lily Garden
PO Box 407
La Center, WA 98629
tel/24hrfax 360-263-5588
tel orders Tuesday-Thursday, 9am-noon PST
Asiatic lilies, Easter lily hybrids, Oriental lilies, Species lilies
Wayside Gardens
1 Garden Lane
Hodges, SC 29695-0001
tel 1-800-845-1124