Freesia Facts . . . . . Suggested Hybrids . . . . . Freesia Sources (It's nearly time to order!)

freesia image



Gems for the Cool Greenhouse in Winter

by Robert Lawrenz
of Bethesda, Maryland, USA

 Freesia Facts

They are named for Frederick Freese, a 19th century German horticulturally-minded physician and botanist.

Freesia "bulbs" are actually corms, with a conical shape.

Their leaves are iris-like in appearance.

The flower is funnel or goblet shaped with 8 to 12 funnels per stem.

A very pleasing aroma is a quality in old varieties. Some of the new hybrids, however, are not as noticeably fragrant.

The flowers come in many colors, including white, yellow, blue, orange and red.

Freesias are tender bulbs that will not grow out of doors in northern states that have frost.

Freesias grow well in a cool (not cold) greenhouse. Night temperatures below 40 or 45F is probably too cold.

Freesias do not like excessive heat.

Freesias like abundant light, a good soil, and fertilizer.

Freesias are magnificent as cut flowers. A pot of them can be brought indoors for enjoyment or as cut stems. They easily can compare to a bouquet of flowers delivered to you by an Avas Flowers online service because in this case, the Freesias were grown by your own two hands, making them all the more enjoyable.

A single freesia stem displayed in a tall and narrow vase can be striking.

They will last for over a week in a house that is not too hot.

Freesias, as with all greenhouse plants, require good air circulation to insure healthy growth.

Suggested Freesia Hybrids

Many hybrids have been introduced in recent decades.

'Helios' (double)
'Royal Gold'
'Buttercup' with orange shade

'Adonis Rose' (double)

'Blue Wimple'
'Royal Blue'


'Alpine' (double)

Freesia Bulb (Corm) Sources

Freesia corms are far more popular in the U.S. today than they were twenty years ago.

Call your local garden centers to see if they stock freesia corms in August and September.


Peter De Jager Bulb Co.
P.O. Box 1020
South Hamilton, MA 01982

George W. Park Co.
Cokesbury Road
P.O. Box 46
Greenwood, SC 29647-0001

Van Engelen Inc.
23 Tulip Drive
Bantam, CT 06750

McClure & Zimmerman Bulbs
P.O. Box 368
Friesland, WI 53935-0368

John Scheepers, Inc.
P.O. Box 700
Bantam, CT 06750

White Flower Farm
Litchfield, CT 06759

 It is amazing how one little event can have such a long term impact on things we do. Many years ago, while my wife and I were living for a year in southwestern England, a new friend stopped by our apartment on American Thanksgiving morning and presented us with a bouquet of one of the most fragrant and vividly colored flowers we had ever seen.

As a result of our friend's thoughtful gesture, we were hooked on freesias.

But it took another five years before we were living in our first house--one with a greenhouse no less--that we began a long love affair with growing, harvesting, sharing and enjoying these items of beauty.

One of the best greenhouse books, Greenhouse Gardener's Companion, by Shane Smith, comments that, "I am convinced that heaven has the scent of freesias." Many of us thoroughly agree.

For the greenhouse gardener it is rather easy to have this heavenly scent and incredibly pleasant blossom thriving in the winter greenhouse. How does one proceed? Here are some suggestions, gathered from 25 years of experience, for growing freesias under glass.

In this Zone 7 growing area [where average minimum temperatures range from 0 to 10 degrees Fahrenheit], raising pots of freesias is a September to April activity. First, I begin by using corms that have been saved from last year's crop and also purchasing a few new hybrids. (See source list and suggested hybrids in column at left.)

As with all bulbs, it is best to select those that are large and firm. Pots really can be any 6 or 8 inch size. I don't particularly like the low bulb pans, because they need too much watering and don't hold the amount of soil that helps good growth. Terra cotta or plastic both work well. I prefer the plastic.

As for soil, the standard mixture of equal part loam, peat moss and sand works just fine.

Some time in late August or early September, I begin the process of gradually potting up the freesias, a few pots each week, that I want to have blooming in January through March. My first year, a long time ago, I started with 10 pots. One year there were almost 100 pots, clearly too many for my 10 by 12 foot greenhouse. This past year there were 38 pots, a very adequate number for our own use, for neighbors, and for friends.

About 6 or 8 corms are gently spaced and placed an inch or two below the soil mixture, firmed down with a bit of soil and then watered thoroughly. The pots do not go right into the greenhouse, but rather are put in a cool, dark or shaded area to enable them to establish a nice rooting system.

During this early growth period below the overhang of the north side of the house, I have had trouble with squirrels getting into the pots. A fencing arrangement around the pots seems to solve this problem.

Within a week new growth appears in each pot. If necessary, add a bit of water to pots that seem to be drying out. Freesias need a good amount of water during their entire growing period, though watering shouldn't be over-done.

When the foliage gets to be 6 or 8 inches tall, it is necessary to begin staking each pot with 2 foot long bamboo stakes. Connect the stakes with green twine or even heavy thread. As the foliage grows to almost 2 feet, keep pushing the greenery inside the staking arrangement. This process helps to keep the individual pots looking neat and eventually guides the flower buds to grow tall and straight.

As the weather gets cool in October, and certainly before the first frost, move all of the pots into the greenhouse. By now they should all look neat and orderly and be ready for a 12 week or so period of growth before blooming. And now is the time to begin a program of fertilizing. This could be an every 2 week activity, or it could mean adding a very small quantity of fertilizer as you are watering. Any all purpose liquid fertilizer (10-30-20) is quite sufficient, being sure to follow the directions on the container.

Aphids and white flies can be a problem, especially in a greenhouse with inadequate air circulation and with plants too close to one another. I have long ago ceased using insecticides or pesticides. I prefer to use the finger squeezing technique, holding up each pot one at a time and examining it for aphids and white flies. It takes patience, but it does work. Those yellow cardboard devices with a sticky substance on them, hung up in the corner of the greenhouse, do help with white flies.

Sometime right after Christmas, here in Maryland, the first buds begin to show their welcome faces. Day by day, as the days get longer, the buds begin to change. Some time in late January you can actually tell what the color of each bud will be. Within days a few buds have opened. February wil bring abundant blossoms and a wonderful feeling that spring is not far away. In March, while the winter aconites, snowdrops, crocuses and daffodils are in bloom outdoors, the freesias in the greenhouse are finishing their season.

Keep watering each pot as the the foliage turns brown. In April and May the pots can be put outside. I prefer to remove the corms from the pots by May or June, let the corms dry a bit, and store them in a cool, dry and airy spot for the summer. If stored in closed containers they will certainly rot. If stored with too many on top of one another they will also be prone to rot.

Using some of the best stored bulbs and buying some new cultivars, you will be ready to begin the whole wonderful process of growing freesias in your winter greenhouse. I don't think you will ever regret growing freesias.

You may contact Bob Lawrenz directly using this email link.

My sincere thanks to Bob for all of the work that he put into this fine article.
I'm ready to grow freesias!
--- Sherry

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Revised 14 July 1997, Copyright 1997, Sherry's Greenhouse, all rights reserved.