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Sherry
Home page . . . . . What
else is there? . . . . . Write to
Sherry
How do you get rid of snails safely? I have two very small children who like to play in the front yard, but that is where my ever growing population of snails reside. Another question. Are Lobelias really annuals or are they perennials? Thanks, Dana
First, I would ask, "Are the snails really causing that much of a problem?" I don't think they will hurt your children. Maybe "live and let live" should apply.
The natural and easiest way to control slugs and snails (and any other pests) is to provide habitat for their natural enemies. This takes awhile to develop. Diverse plantings, available water, toad houses (such as an upturned clay pot with a cracked rim to provide entry, placed in a cool spot), a bird feeder--all will contribute. Slugs, for example are preyed on by ants, beetle grubs, earwigs, flies, birds, snakes, toads, and turtles. I suspect they may also enjoy snails.
Snails are the favored snack of my father's emus (large ostrich-like birds). OK, so that's not a particularly practical suggestion. (They don't like slugs. Apparently the crunchy shell is an important part of the treat.)
An easy way to trap them is to lay boards out on moist ground overnight. The next morning, check under the boards and dispose of the snails. If you do this regularly, you will soon notice a difference.
The commonly used beer entrapment will also work. Put the beer in covered plasic containers with holes in the sides a couple of inches up from the bottom. Sink the containers into the ground so that the holes are at ground level. The snails will crawl in and drown. Dispose of them daily. Do you really want to do this?
I confess that when I worked for a commercial perennial grower, I used to snip slugs in two without giving it a second thought (because that's what I was instructed to do). Even after leaving that position, I continued the practice at home. My husband pointed out that snipping the slugs didn't quite fit in with my normal way of thinking or acting about other things. So I stopped. I now remove them from the greenhouse physically, but I don't kill them.
My gardens outside do very well despite an abundance of slugs. I lost only a couple of basil plants. They nibbled on a couple of cucumbers. The key was to get everything growing so vigorously that they couldn't keep up. It worked. We have a LOT of slugs here in the rainy Pacific Northwest. I would never be done if I were trying to control them. I just end up sharing a little. It works for me.
Hope the suggestions above help. Thank you for writing.
Oh, and about Lobelias. Some are annual (the edging types, some upright,
some trailing, with small leaves and flowers. Example: Lobelia
erinus 'Sapphire', a trailing type with white-eyed flowers--my
favorite). Some are perennial (upright growth, coarse leaves,
larger flowers, but same shape. Example: Lobelia cardinalis or
Cardinal Flower).
Sherry,
I have a caterpillar problem. Rather than just picking them off,
is there anything on the market that can get rid of them? Any
help would be greatly appreciated!
You don't say what plant these caterpillars are on, but here are some general ways to rid your plants of the soft creatures. One cautionary note: Wonderful creatures such as butterflies spend part of their lives as caterpillars, so I don't recommend spraying indiscriminately.
Try to identify your caterpillars, so you know what you're dealing with. Have you tried raising a caterpillar? I did this last year by placing a couple of different ones in separate jars. I added some of their apparent preferred food (part of my garden plants) and a little water to the jar to keep the food fresh. I covered the jar with cloth mesh and waited for the transformation. Eventually, each formed a chrysalis. One finally emerged as a Western Painted Lady butterfly (I think). The other one (poor thing) was standing in water up to its knees when I got home to check its jar. I let it crawl onto my finger and held it up in the air. I flew a few feet over to a bamboo stand and spent some time letting its wings dry more before it flew away. Of course, you can always just get a book.
Commercially available spray: There is a product called "Concern Multi-Purpose Insect Killer" which is pyrethrin based. May be used right up until harvest, but use with caution as it kills a broad range of insects. It is supposed to be effective against caterpillars. If you need a mail order source, let me know.
Barriers: Surround your plants with a 2 inch wide strip of crushed eggshells, crushed seashells, or wood ashes. You can do this around the whole garden or around individual plants. Ashes work best if dry, but the others remain effective either way. These barriers work by making it uncomfortable or deadly for the creatures to pass. Make a "fence" of copper or other metal and surround your garden or plants. Bend it at the top edge to form an upside down "L" with the edge bent away from the garden or plant. This will make it difficult for the caterpillar to crawl over.
With barriers, of course, you will still have to pick off any caterpillars that are on your plants when you put up the barriers, otherwise they will be happily imprisoned with their favorite food.
What is blossom-end rot on tomatoes and how do I prevent it? How do I get rid of it? Thank you for your help. -- Michael
Tomato blossom end rot is caused by a calcium deficiency and/or irregular watering. It appears as a dry, brown spot on the part of the fruit opposite the stem. Also, the tips of new shoots on the plant may be stunted and distorted.
To prevent blossom end rot, water the plants regularly. Don't allow them to wilt, but don't water too much, either. Tomatoes aren't swamp plants. Consistent watering practices will ensure that calcium reaches the tomato fruit at the time of its formation. You can use bonemeal or crushed eggshells in the soil to boost calcium levels. Mulch the soil to maintain a more consistent moisture level there.
You could also spray a solution (one percent) of calcium chloride on the leaves.
Hi. My name is Donna and I have a corn plant that has brown spots on its new leaves and I know I'm not overwatering it but it just don't seem to be healthy.
You most likely have a fungus growing on your corn leaves. One type is known as "rust" and shows as orange-brown raised spots on the leaves. All fungal problems can be avoided by rotating your crops. Don't plant corn in the same place year after year. Let the soil rest or grow other crops there at least 2 out of 3 years.
Since corn depletes the soil of nutrients
more than most vegetables, legumes such as peas (which fix nitrogen)
are a good alternate crop. For your immediate problem, spray infected
plants with sulfur to prevent spread of the fungus. Thin your
plants to increase air circulation among them. Avoid watering
the leaves--water at the base of the plants. In the future, plant
rust-tolerant cultivars such as 'Earlibelle', 'Flavor King', 'Summer
Pearl', and 'Sweetie 82'.
WHITEFLIES
Hi Sherry! Your web site is great! Do you have any suggestions for organic methods of controlling whiteflies?
I live in Alaska, and have tried using numerous different commercial chemicals, none of which ever eliminated the flies completely. The flies seem to prefer geraniums, which, coincidentally, is my favorite flower for growing here in the winter inside (they will bloom easily under flourescent lights).
I also over-winter a number of fuschia plants under the flourescent lights in my basement, and the flies will occasionally accumulate on a fuschia. I've tried spraying with a wide variety of available chemical pesticides, but nothing is 100%. Obviously I don't want to be spraying inside my house. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! ...Kathy
Whiteflies are a problem in most greenhouses, and they also thrive outdoors in warm areas. Here are a few suggestions for controlling whiteflies in greenhouses. (The products I describe may be available to you locally. If not, get Charley's Greenhouse Supply catalog (1569 Memorial Hwy, Mount Vernon, WA 98273-9721, telephone 1-800-322-4707, fax 1-800-233-3078 ).
1. To control adults, use yellow sticky traps and hang near infested plants (or staple them to the top of a small stake). If the problem is concentrated in a small area, a vacuum cleaner is effective. Remove nozzle and hold tube above plant while shaking plant.
USE THIS ONLY AS A LAST RESORT (SOME PEOPLE ARE SENSITIVE TO IT.): There is a product called "Concern Multi-Purpose Insect Killer" which I have not personally tried, but it is technically organic. It contains pyrethrin which is derived from an African chrysanthemum flower. Pyrethrin-based insecticides are supposed to be effective in controlling whiteflies and can be used indoors or out right up to time of harvest. Be sure to spray the *undersides* of all of the leaves.
Ultra-fine horticultural spray oil will smother them. Can also be used inside and out. Be sure to spray the *undersides* of all of the leaves. Very safe to use.
I also discovered by accident last winter another means of killing adult whiteflies. We had extremely cold temperatures, a power outage, and no backup heating system for the greenhouse. My husband suggested that we use the barbecue! He piled it full of briquets and lit them. The greenhouse was kept above freezing, but the air was so thick with with smoke that you could not breathe it. The tomato plants were saved, and all of the whiteflies on them were killed.
2. To attack whitefly scales (young whiteflies), get Encarsia formosa (parasitic wasps). They need a temperature average of 70 degrees Farenheit (day + night temperature divided by two). Use in combination with yellow sticky traps. (You may use "Concern" spray first, but not at the same time.)
3. You can also use a "bait" plant to alert you to whitefly infestation and concentrate the problem in a smaller area for easier control. (This is a long shot, but anything is worth trying when it comes to whiteflies--except toxic chemicals.) Use a fuchsia as "bait." Whiteflies love fuchsia. (Of course you already know that!) Sometimes all plants seem to me to be "bait" plants for whiteflies.
Good luck! Whiteflies are a difficult problem.
RABBIT REPELLANT
I live in Maryland and we have planted some fall Pansies. Unfortunately the ground hogs and bunnies seem to think that they are quite delicious. How do we keep them from eating all of them? Any suggestions regarding repellants ? Mike
Here are a couple of things to try:
1. Protect young plants with netting (or plastic mesh produce bags); when plants are larger, remove netting. This is an ugly solution, but the next one I like for its subtlety:
2. Remembering that the cat is the rabbit's natural enemy, put your house cat to use. Since you may not want to harm the rabbit--only chase him away--collect the fur from your cat's daily brushing. Placed the fur around your garden, especially by plants that the rabbit preferred. Within days the rabbit should be gone. Continue to replace the cat fur after every rain to ensure its effectiveness
If you don't have your own cat (or you don't brush your cat every day), I'm sure you could easily get lots of cat fur from a commercial place that grooms cats.
If none of this works, at least the bunnies
and groundhogs are enjoying some fine meals!
WEBS AND LITTLE BROWN SPECKS (MITES)
"Hi there--Thank you so much for responding to my e-mail. I am working on those problems. We now have metal halide lights. The bougainvillea is doing well, however, the hibiscus is failing. Today I found little webs around the top leaves. The webs had small, whitish-brownish specs in them. What should I do? I am putting the entire greenhouse in danger by leaving the plant inside? Your input would be appreciated. Thank you again- Hillary"
Hello, again, Hillary! You have mites on your hibiscus--those brownish specks on the webs that have formed on your plant's leaves. They will likely spread to other plants, so start eliminating them as soon as possible. First, wash the plant off with water thoroughly--especially the "webbed" areas and underneath the leaves. Then spray the plant with either insecticidal soap or ultra-fine agricultural oil (sometimes called summer oil). I think the oil treatment works best. It smothers the creatures.
I would also spray any plants that are near the hibiscus. Be sure to follow up with additional spray per the label instructions.
If you can't find the products I mention locally, they are available mailorder from Charley's Greenhouse Supply, 1569 Memorial Highway, Mount Vernon, WA 98273, telephone 1-800-322-4707, fax 1-800-233-3078.
Mites generally like dry conditions. Try to bring up the humitidy in your greenhouse
a bit. Use trays of water near the plants or hose down the floor
once in a while. Good luck!
"HORRIBLE
STICKY RESIDUE" (APHIDS OR SCALE INSECTS)
"Sherry, I hope this reaches you. I'm desperate and hope you can help. I have many large ficus trees in my house. Three have horrible sticky residue that drops onto my hardwood floors and area rugs. It's ruining both but the trees are beautiful. The stuff washes off but comes right back. Should I spray with malethion or something???? Please, please help. I loved your page. Congrats on the award. Thanks in advance for any help you can give me. R-"
Your ficus trees have a common problem that is easily remedied. Please don't use malathion! There are several organic methods that work well. Your trees probably have either aphids or scale insects. Both secrete honeydew (the sticky stuff that is dropping onto your floors). Scale insects are particulary good at hiding. They look like slight bumps on stems and the undersides of leaves (occasionally on the upper sides of leaves).
If the problem is severe, you should first try to physically remove some of the insects. For aphids, you can blast them off with water spray. Scale insects are more tenacious--use a wet cloth to scrub them off. If you look at your trees and decide that is way too big a job, then go to the next paragraph.
I have this same problem with my lemon tree. I have found ultra-fine horticultural oil to be the most effective control. It can be used year round and works by "smothering" the insects and their eggs rather than poisoning. Safe to use anywhere.
I have also used hot pepper wax with success. Hot pepper wax kills insects by destroying their metabolism and by suffocation. Both of these organic methods are diluted with water and sprayed on the entire plant--upper and lower leaves and stems. If you do this inside, you will need to put down a drop cloth to protect the floor.
Apply every 7 to 10 days for 3 or 4 weeks to get things under control. (You said that other trees do not have this problem. Inspect carefully to decide if one preventive application is necessary. They may have nothing, or it may just be beginning if they are anywhere near the affected trees.)
After that, spraying once every month or two should keep things in check. Be sure to physically inspect your plants between applications to be sure the little creatures are not sneaking up on you again.
The most important thing to remember is maintenance--once you have control, maintain it by regular spraying. Then you never have a really big problem to deal with.
Note: The following report from my father
is
NOT for the squeamish.
Sherry - I like your new page format. I
read your information on slug killing. This has been the year
of the slug invasion here. Were talking about thousands, literally.
[YIKES!] Your mother makes regular nightly runs to kill slugs
with a spray bottle filled with half and half household ammonia
and water. Her bag is in the hundreds nightly. (What attracts
her is the thrill of the chase.) I have been looking for ways
for mass killing. I heard about cottage cheese containers and
beer and tried some. They work, but with the slug supply we have,
they are not big enough and fill up overnight and let the ones
on top escape. I tried a hog pan which didn't work. I had a thought
it had to be a container with slick surfaces. The only large container
that matched that description that I could think of around here
was an old metal bedpan. I tried it and it works. The sight of
a bedpan filled with dead slugs is a real stomach turner, it looks
as if the patient was really sick, but maybe the concerted efforts
of both of us will turn the tide. One thing we have tried that
works, but is rather expensive, is a squeeze bottle called Slug
and Snail Line. Squirting a slug line around a planted seedling
gives it a chance to get started.
Love, Dad.
[who is not necessarily an organic gardener]
Need to know more? See this page.