You don't say where in the world you live, what your climate is, or what exposure this problem site in your garden gets (sun or shade), but here are a few possibilities. Remember that any plant that grows well in overly wet soil appreciates consistent moisture. The soil should not dry out in the summer.
Schizostylis coccinea (Kaffir Lily). Prefers a mild climate.
Aster novi-belgii 'Snowsprite' (form of Michaelmas Daisy)
Viburnum opulus 'Sterile', 12-15 ft high, red foliage in autumn
Scirpus tabernaemontani 'Zebrinus' (Zebra Rush)
Iris sibirica (many varieties do well in wet soil)
Primula japonica (and many other Primulas do well in wet soil)
Cornus alba 'Elegantissima', 6 to 9 feet. Dogwood with beautiful white and
green variegated foliage, red stems in winter.
Trollius ledebouri'Golden Queen' (form of Globe flower)
Hemerocallis (Daylily), many beautiful colors available now, easy to grow.
Geum rivale 'Leonard's Variety' (pale salmon colored flowers, good ground
cover)
Rodgersia pinnata, 3 to 4 ft high, variety 'Superba' has pink flours
Lobelia fulgens, variety 'Queen Victoria' is a nice red
Astilbe (many varieties)
Hosta (many varieties)
Matteuccia struthiopteris (Ostrich feather fern, needs partial shade)
Salix (willow) Most varieties will do well in wet soil
Caltha palustris (Marsh Marigold or Kingcup)
Sherry-What can you tell me about starting a garden in the city-like on a rooftop,perhaps? Where can I find some apartment gardeners? I am moving from the REAL country to a building in the city with no yard.Help! How will I survive without dandelion greens?
Jamie
I just researched a similar issue for someone else at our huge (full city block, several stories high) locally-owned bookstore, Powell's Books. Please read and see if any of this helps you. (The first thing I do when getting involved in any new area is get a book about it).
You can still have a GREAT garden! Your particular issue is really about CONTAINER gardening. The rooftop as a possible location for the garden just means avoiding too much weight where weight cannot be supported, managing water runoff, and having water available on-site. Only a couple of the 25 books I looked at even mentioned rooftop gardening--Focusing on that would of course severely limit the marketability of their book, as not many of us live at the top of buildings.
Definitely use a lightweight potting mix (which is good for container gardening anyway). Also, if the plants are not deep rooted (maybe even if they are), you can lessen the weight of a pot by filling the bottom one-third or so with styrofoam packing peanuts. I don't know what your location is like, but if it is exposed to a lot of wind, you must find ways to secure your containers so they don't blow over. (This is where lightening up those containers might work against you.) Tying them together in some way would help. Perhaps a gridwork of wood framing in which the pots could sit. If you get too much sun in summer, you may need to set up some screening or a few taller plants for protection of the others.
Of all the books I looked through, I found only 7 worth listing. I list them in order of preference.
1. "The Complete Container Garden" by David Joyce, publisher Reader's Digest, $30.00. The word for this book is "INSPIRING." Great and abundant photos, including photos of individual steps of various processes (e.g. propagation). A section on pot painting (e.g. "bronzing" terra cotta). Beautiful examples of plant combinations with large photos. One-half of book is a plant list--4 sections with more photos (although not a photo of each and every plant listed), full descriptions of care, etc. The sections are: a) Flowers, by color (and organized according to season of bloom within each color); b) Foliage by leaf color; c) Herbs, vegetables and fruit; d) "Berrying" plants and grasses. (That last section seems odd. I didn't know that "berrying" was a word, and also I would have thought those plants better suited to the fruit section.) Following the descriptive plant list is a group of lists which would be of further help when planning a container garden (e.g. "scented plants", "shade tolerant plants", "alpine gardening", "survivors" (tough plants).
2. "The Contained Garden, Revised Edition", by Kenneth Beckett, publisher Penguin Books, $19.95. Good section on containers, various potting methods, weather prtection, watering when you're away. Brief mention of rooftop garden considerations, good photos. Plant group suggestions (mostly colored drawings, but well-annotated). One-half of book is list of plants and good drawings (care, zone, description of growth habit, propagation, size of container recommended).
3. "The Container Garden Month by Month" by Jackie Bennett, publisher David & Charles, $24.95. Each month of the year has tasks to be undertaken, featured plants, and a specific project to be completed (e.g. October: Tasks - Taking cuttings, dividing perennials, storing begonias, and more; Featured Plants - Michaelmas Daisy, Japanese Maple and more; Project - Planning and planting a winter display). Mostly drawings, few photos. This might be a good book if you need help getting started or are an inexperienced gardener.
4. "Container Plants for Patios, Balconies, Windowboxes" by Halina Heitz, publisher Barron's, $22.95. Two-thirds of the book is a plant list with great photos and detailed care information. Good care and overwintering section. Not much help with combinations. No help with overall garden design. Great for the individual plant list though.
5. "The Creative Container Gardener" by Elaine Stevens, publisher Ten Speed Press, $14.95. This book has very specific plans for 19 theme gardens. Material and light requirements given, plant suggestions. No photos, a few drawings. 6. "The Container Gardener" by Rupert Golby, publisher Stemmer House, $21.50 (for a used copy, in like new condition. I think book is usually $35.00). This book leans toward the formal type of container garden. I did not find the combinations too inspiring, but then I tend to like informal types. There was one photo of some golden-leaved bamboo paired with a very dark velvety coleus that looked great in the photo, though. Detailed "map" of each planted container in back of book with specific plants named. No help with general design.
7. (This one specifically mentions "rooftop" in the title so may address that issue more.) "Balcony & Rooftop Gardening", by Yvonne Rees, Ward Lock publishers. No details, as I didn't get a chance to look at it.
Powells Books (our locally-owned huge bookstore) has a great website! (You can search, and purchase through them via the website.) It's a great way of seeing what's in their inventory, but I still like wandering through the store better. They also list their USED books, which are sometimes a great savings, always at least somewhat less expensive. the web address is http://www.powellsbooks.com
Another source via the World Wide Web is Amazon Books in Seattle
(http://www.amazon.com) through which you can purchase books and search
their inventory.
Do you know of a good landscape design software that isn't too expensive?
See the current (January 97) issue of Garden Gate magazine (p. 28) for an article reviewing design programs and databases. In general, the plant DATABASES seem to be getting fair to good reviews. The plant DESIGN programs have not done so well.
"3D Landscape" (Books That Work) has received 2 bad reviews
that I've seen ("cartoony graphics", "perennials are not
well represented"). One exception is LandDesigner (Green Thumb Software,
Inc., 75 Manhattan Drive, Suite 100, Boulder, CO 80303, suggested retail
price $49.95). This was favorably reviewed by Fine Gardening magazine in
their April 1995 issue. Uses extensive information and photos from White
Flower Farm nursery.
Hi. My name is Kimberley Brown, and I'm a student. For a project at school, we need to find out the 4 steps involved in planning a garden. I would be most grateful if you could help me out. Thanks a million!
Here are some basic steps involved in planning a garden:
1. First, where is your garden? Is it in an area that experiences extreme temperature changes over a year's time, or is it in the coastal area of southern California where temperatures are generally warm and moderate? Does your garden area get at least 6 hours of sun, or is it in the shade? The answers to these questions will determine what types of plants you can grow in your garden.
2. What sort of plants would you like to grow? If you want to grow most vegetables, fruits, herbs, and flowers, you will need at least 6 hours of sun a day on your garden in spring and summer. If your garden is shaded, your options are fewer, but you can still have a great garden. Even some vegetables will take a bit of shade.
If you want a garden that is interesting in every season, you need to select plants carefully. Consider more than just flowers or foliage. Look at beautiful branch patterns, plants that have interesting bark, or plants that have colorful berries through the winter.
3. What sort of soil do you have to work with? Most gardens don't have perfect soil and need amendments. Amend the soil at least somewhat before you begin extensive planting. Usually this means adding lots of organic matter. Make your own compost or spread autumn leaves on the garden to decompose over the winter. Raise worms [See the WORM page!] to make very rich compost for your garden.
4. Gardens are more than just plants. You also need some structure. This can mean how you arrange the plants (in straight rows or natural looking groups, for example). It can also mean the addition of things other than plants such as a meandering gravel path that leads to a sturdy wooden bench, a rock wall to terrace a sloping garden, or a pool of water to reflect your plantings.
Working through the 4 steps above will have you well on your way to a
garden full of healthy plants that is a pleasure for you and for others.
I'm new at this email stuff. I am fortunate enough to have email at work. it's a slow day, but I'm a gardener and wanted to let you know how much fun it is to see your web site and all that goes along with it. I hope you'll send me a message, even if it's just to say "hi".
My husband and I built a house in the Texas hill country a year ago and the thing I miss most is the lush green yard I had when i lived in town. Now it's a different story. We have 10 acres and it's staring me in the face like a blank canvas. HELP!!! By the way, my name is Kathi S. and I'm in Austin, Texas. I also do t-shirts and bookplates with a gardening theme to them. I'm a designer and work for a small advertising firm. See ya.
First, read the entry "Simple garden planning."
There are several books you might find useful:
1. "The Natural Garden Book" by Peter Harper with Chris Madsen and Jeremy Light, publisher Simon and Schuster/Fireside. This is one of the best gardening books I've yet seen.From the foreword: "In a world of shrinking resources, increasing deserts and pollution, and a desire for good fresh food and a healthy environment, each of us often wonders how we can bring more vitality and beauty into our lives..." To me, that is what gardening is all about. The book is full of beautiful photographs and a wealth of practical information. With your newly-acquired acreage, you are in a perfect position to use the information in this book.
2. Another good book for garden design is "The Garden Book" by John Brookes, publisher Crown Trade Paperbacks (originally published in hardcover in Great Britain), $24.00. This book approaches gardening from a controlling standpoint, and also has more hard structures such as paving, walls, pergolas. There are lots of plans. The gardens are more "urban" in style, looking well planned rooms. Lots of good ideas.
3. "The Four-Season Landscape" by Susan A. Roth, publisher Rodale Books, $16.95. Great help in choosing plants for a garden with year-round interest.
There are many approaches to garden design. After reading what I've written above and giving it some thought, consider these approaches:
1. Always consider what is already there and whether or not you want to leave it there. If you have healthy plants already growing, you could plant or add structure such as rocks or a bench or a path to enjoy and to enhance them. Sometimes pruning a tree to open it up and expose the branch structure makes a beautiful difference. Work with nature as much as possible. If you have an area that won't drain well, plant a bog garden. If you have a dry slope, look for plants that love it there and that will prevent erosion. Use all of the organic matter that your acreage produces to build the soil. This can be done by simply leaving the leaves where they fall or by actively composting and distributing the result.
2. Look at specific views of your garden and develop them a bit. You could start with annuals and work up or do some research and jump right into planting trees and shrubs. Look at the area around the entry to your home--one of the first things most people see. What would you like to have there? Are the conditions right for it? This is definitely an area for year-round interest plants. Look out different windows from inside your house. Are there views you would like to block or expose? You could plant gardens meant to be enjoyed from those vantage points. Perhaps you could plan for a vegetable garden in close proximity to the kitchen.
3. Consider whether you want only native plants or a mixture of plants from everywhere (as long as they're suitable for your site).
4. Start with one small thing to give you a sense of accomplishment. This might be a small herb garden just outside the kitchen door if you love to cook with fresh herbs. Many herbs are also very decorative: Chives (attractive leaves and beautiful edible flowers), variegated sages, purple basil, golden lemon thyme, wooly apple mint, greek oregano (furry leaves and light pink flowers), rosemary (many varieties have beautiful blue flowers).
5. Try the "garden room" approach. Each room (as in your house) would have a purpose (such as a cutting garden or an area to relax or entertain guests) and be delineated by "walls" made up of formal or informal rows of plants, or stone walls, a stream, or a planted earth berm.
6. Another approach is to have 3 gardening "zones." Garden most intensively the areas adjacent to your house. The area beyond that would have a lighter touch but would be developed a bit. The outermost area would be as wild as possible. This can be done with even small gardens to some extent (but you don't have that problem!).
7. When choosing what to do, be sure to consider how much time you have to garden. If you have very little time to devote to the garden, use more rocks and structures with plants as accents, or let things be wild. Rocks need no water or fertilizer.
8. Always plant to encourage wildlife. A variety of plantings will encourage birds and beneficial insects. They will help you in turn. Their presence greatly enhances any garden.
9. PLEASE GARDEN ORGANICALLY. DON'T USE CHEMICAL FERTILIZERS, PESTICIDES OR HERBICIDES. If you need specific help with a problem, just ask me. I'll help .
Hi. You really seem to know what you're doing, and my resident gardening expert passed on last year, so I am at a loss. I live in Western Colorado, where it's either hot and dry, or cold. My area is about 10'X 3' and I want to create a small flower garden. I also work 50 hours a week and have two small children, so it needs to be fairly low maintenance.
Do you have suggestions for good plants for this climate? I'd really like to plant this fall before it gets too cold and have it ready to come up in the spring. I know lilies are good for that. I've also considered Xeriscaping, but know nothing about it. Could you help me? Thank you for your time.
A flower garden and xeriscaping are very compatible--low maintenance and low water use as well. (Gardening with native and/or low-water plants is commonly referred to as "xeriscaping" (formed from the Greek word "xeros" which means "drought.")
Yes, lilium (lilies) are good, and they come in a variety of colors and sizes, some scented and some not. Also good for cut flowers.Here are some other possibilities:
Most of the following are great for cut flowers also - Achillea (yarrow),Aquilegia (columbine), Aster, Centaura (perennial cornflower), Dianthus(pinks), Hermerocallis (day lily), Lavandula (lavender), Salvia, Nepeta(catmint), Scabiosa (the cultivar 'Butterfly Blue' blooms and blooms),Sedum (stonecrop), bulbs (especially species tulips, which are long lived).
For foliage to set off the flower color: Artemisia (dusty miller and others), Stachys byzantina (Lamb's Ears),Santolina, and one of the sages. For contrasting texture: Wooly thyme (tiny leaves, forms furry mat under plants), GRASSES: Carex buchananii (fox red curly sedge--reddish bronze leaves), Carex morrowii 'Aurea Variegata' (grass with gold center, green leaf edges), Miscanthus sinensis 'Morning Light' (white and gray-green thin striped leaves, about 3 ft tall).
Also check your local nursery for alpine type plants that would be appropriate as low plants at the front of the flower bed. (Candytuft works well for that also). The plants I've recommended are all perennials that need sun. I don't know your color preferences either, but you should be able to edit the list to something you would like. If you wish, leave some room for annuals as well.
Check these xeriscaping websites for more information:
This "high-altitude horticulture" website, mentions the Denver Water Board book "Xeriscape Plant Guide" (avail. at bookstores nationwide)
"The Enchanted Xeriscape" garden design and plant guide brochure available at no charge. Specific to New Mexico but would apply elsewhere.
North Dakota State University's "Xeriscape Plant Selections and Ideas"
"Photos of Some Common Xeriscape Plants" from Colorado State University
If you're interested in reading more about xeriscaping, and about how
people in different areas have applied the principles to their gardens,
I recommend the book, "Water-Wise Gardening" by Thomas Christopher,
publisher Simon & Schuster.