Grow Mandevilla from "tubers"?
I work at
a greenhouse and nursery and we kept some mandavilla plants overwinter. Today
we were going to dump them out, but when we did we noticed that
they had tubers under them. Will the mandavilla grow from
these tubers? They look healthy and they remind me of dahlia
tubers. I would like to try and grow them from these tubers
if possible.
Thank you --Merna L.
Mandevilla is
a tuberous-rooted, wood-stemmed tropical vine, and it is easily
grown from cuttings.There
is conflicting information regarding whether or not the swollen
roots can
be used to produce more Mandevilla plants. I would say that it is worth a try.
Do the tubers
have "eyes" like
a potato? If so, be sure to have at least two on each division of the root.
Look at the following webpage on the " ... subterranean
system in Mandevilla illustris...", particularly Figures 7 and 9.
The photos show sprouts and leaves on the ends of Mandevilla tubers.
Good luck, and please let me know how it goes. I enjoy my Mandevilla growing
near the front door for its incredibly sweet fragrance.
-- Sherry
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Mossy flats, seeds not germinating
Hi,
New to your website but really like what I see. Maybe you
can help me. I have searched and can't find
an answer. I have a greenhouse with gas heat, fan, etc. I am
bottom watering my flats but now they have moss. If I don't water as
often, they dry out and won't germinate. HELP!!!! What am I doing
wrong? My
seeds won't germinate and I'm having a family reunion this summer!
--Thanks
Brenda H. Hello, Brenda! Thank you for visiting my website.
I find bottom
watering to be fine for young plants, but not for seeds. Seeds
want moisture, but not to the exclusion of air!
Are you using a potting
mix that drains well but still retains moisture? The right balance
of ingredients such as peat (moisture
retentive) and perlite (drainage
and air) makes a difference. Seeds prefer a light mix. Try combining 4 parts
peat, 2 parts fine perlite, and 2 parts fine vermiculite, OR try just using
vermiculite (fine grade) alone. Remember that your little seedlings
will need some weak fertilizer
as soon as they show true leaves, as there is no food for them in perlite
or vermiculite.
I water my potting mix with warm water, plant the seeds,
then COVER THE FLAT with one of those clear dome covers. Most flats
I place on a heat mat. I check
the flats
daily and water only where needed using a bottled water bottle with a squirt
top (usually the cells on the edge dry out a bit first. Using the dome
is important-- it retains the original moisture longer. You could
also just
use a plastic
bag and support it above the flat with small sticks or wire arches (so
any sprouts
don't touch the plastic directly).
IMPORTANT: As soon as the seeds sprout,
prop up one edge of the dome (or open the end of the plastic bag)
to let some air circulate; otherwise you
will have
trouble with damping off fungus.
As soon as the seedlings are large enough
to handle (having 2 true leaves-- just enough to hang on to as
you transfer the seedling), you can pot them up in regular potting
mix and continue to feed a
weak
fertilizer solution often. |
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Plans,
photos and materials list for a small inexpensive greenhouse.
(Photo from
sd1new.net garden pages.) |
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greenhouse tasks
For me, this
month has involved many tasks outside the greenhouse, not necessarily
even gardening. One big job involves improving the drainage along
one side of the area of our back yard (between the house and
greenhouse) that I paved with flat basalt stones.
 I
lifted one row of stones, dug the ditch (which will become a
sort of French drain),
placed the drainage pipe and an upended large old clay pot, and
poured 6 bags of river rock into it, hardly making a dent. Obviously,
a large truck needs to bring some more river rock and gravel,
and I need to summon the energy to haul it all up our steep driveway,
fill my drain and reset the pavers.
The photo
above does not represent the depth of the ditch well. It runs
about 14" deep to 20" deep where the pot is. The plastic is there
to keep the hens from scratching dirt into the ditch before I
finish it. The beautiful golden leaves you see hanging over it
are Acer
negundo 'Kelly's Gold'. There
is another of the same type of drain behind the north wall
of the greenhouse
already dug and set with a pipe which has never been finished
and trips me up whenever I walk through there.(I would be embarassed
to tell you how many years it has been that way.) Completing
both drains will bring the back yard forward considerably.
Projects
like that mean that the greenhouse has been running on its
own much of the time. I was just dashing in there long enough
to water and feel guilty about not getting my tomatoes transplanted,
noticing several orchids in bloom and a bumper lime crop
coming on, and harvesting some lemons.
To solve
my transplanting problem, I gave away many tomato and cucumber
plants just as they were needing to go into gallon pots.
I always overplant.
I thought
I was a bit behind on my seed starting, but realized that
I ususally start the basil, squashes and melons too soon
anyway. You, too, can start your warm weather crops this
month in
plenty of time to get them of good size before planting outside.
Succession
planting of lettuce can continue in the greenhouse or out.
(This is where I have failed. I have a crop of beautiful
lettuce ready outside and no seedlings ready to plant in
its place.)
If you
feel you are also behind schedule, don't worry. Just jump
in and plant seeds starting now. A well grown plant will
usually catch up as the weather warms. Any crop that doesn't
care
for cooler temperatures is just going to sit and wait for
better conditions, so there is no point in setting them out
too early. See "Starting Seeds" in
the column at right.
For the cheerful
sight of blooms in the greenhouse this winter, some seeds should be
started now. See "Planning for Winter Flowers" at right. |
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The
website upgrade of SHERRY'S GREENHOUSE isn't just a fantasy.
It will
happen. Meanwhile, I have some websites to work on for others.
You can use
this link to the old website to
access its contents. I will keep everything up until I have remodeled
and organized the rest.
If
there are particular subjects you would like to see addressed
in this website, please write
to me with your suggestions.
Thank you --Sherry |
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Make soil scoops,
watering cans, markers, or use them as weights to hold down row covers. |
In
this Popular Mechanics web page, a greenhouse
kit from B.C. Greenhouse Builders is assembled. Helpful details
in the text and 16 photos, and a list of greenhouse kit suppliers
at the bottom of the page.
Mother Earth
News article detailing an earth-sheltered
greenhouse. |
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Visit

You'll find this site very
useful.Typing in a plant name (I looked up Tomato 'Juliet') brings up its
entry and a thumbnail image. Clicking on either brings up more detail such
as height, spacing, days to maturity, reviews from other gardeners, and more
images that you can click on and enlarge to get a really good look.
Nonmembers may only search
10 times, but membership is free. Perhaps you could join and add to the database.
"The
Plants Database currently contains 62,053 plants, 34,154 photos, 15,467
comments, representing 356 families, 2,416 genera, and 5,407 species.
This
database was collaboratively developed by gardeners around the world.
It is the result of the efforts of 4,718 individuals. It is the largest of
its
kind in existence.
You may search for entries
in several ways: by name (common or botanical); by characteristics (height,
hardiness, etc.) or browse
the database by
category." |
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Use a timer
to control your lights, which should be on over your seedlings
no more than 18 hours a day.
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Orchid, name unknown.
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More places to look for planting inspiration:
Oregon State University's recommended vegetable varieties for
2004
Don't be
concerned that the page header says "Curcurbit Breeding",
this list from North Carolina state university contains links to
hundreds
of "Vegetable
Cultivar Descriptions for North America".
All America
Selections
BBC - Gardening
- new vegetables
An article
in the Louisville, Kentucky, Courier-Journal discusses some
of the new
offerings for 2004, as
does the
Detroit
News.
From the
Southern Great Lakes gardening website, a
cutting garden or the
University of Illinois extention's Plan
a cutting garden.
A salad
garden discussion from (why not?) the Department of Environmental
Protection of Montgomery county, Maryland. From Virginia
cooperative extension, a
new look at the salad garden. For those with less space, start
a container salad garden, from Slugs and Salal.
Plant
those cool season crops, from Iowa State university.
Plant an
herb
garden in a ladder. (It is not a vertical garden.)
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| Greenhouses
in Antarctica - "The McMurdo greenhouse has
no glass. In a continent with only one long summer day and one
long winter night in a year, the greenhouse's
artificial lights create night and day every 24 hours for the plants." |
Hollyhock seeds won't grow
Hi IM new to this gardening and I love hollyhock's but the
problem with that is I have not been able to get them to come
up. I have planted them
in the spring around last year and they didn't do anything. So my question is
when
is the best time to plant Hollyhocks? Thank you for all the information you
have all ready post to us. ---Summer.
Hollyhocks (aka Althaea) should be easy to grow. If you plant them outside,
do so after the last frost.
If that has not been working for you, I would try planting them indoors. You
will then have more control over the environment. Althaea seeds need light to
germinate, so just press the seeds into the soil-- don't bury them. They will
germinate best at 60 to 70 degrees Farenheit soil temperature in about 10 to
14 days.
Go to the seed starting page for
planting
instructions:
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You
may prefer a different shape for your greenhouse. Geodesic domes
offer another possibility. From Ernie Aiken of Worldflower Garden
Domes, connector kits are available --cut your own lumber and
save money, or purchase a complete ready-to-assemble garden dome
kit. Worldflower
Garden Domes are not
free, as the above resources are, but are certainly interesting.
You can easily make a paper model from Ernie's website graphics
to preview any of the dome models, or just look through the extensive
photos in the site.
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Build a garden cloche & raised bed
For those plants you've set out early and
want to protect from frost, eartheasy offers plans for building
a portable
garden cloche. Very clear instructions and drawings. Make a cloche to their specifications, or make one to fit over
a raised garden
bed (more good info. from eartheasy).
By the way,
I highly recommend raised beds. I put in 8 small (about 4 feet
square) raised beds last year. Of course, I was staining,
installing, and leveling them during a particularly rainy period,
but it was well worth it. I did not use treated lumber, just deck
stain on plain fir lumber.
My near urban lot is hilly, small, and
just about solid clay soil. The raised bed structure takes
care of
the terracing
necessary to get any flat ground around here. In the beds I have
perfectly drained fluffy soil at all times. In our cool soggy
winter and spring, the soil temperature in the raised beds is
significantly
higher. All to the good.
Vegetable production last year was far beyond what I had ever
gotten in a traditional ground level garden. It helped to have
a definite edge to everything also.
Producing transplants in the greenhouse is so much more satisfying
when you know they will continue to thrive when set out into the
raised beds.
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Spider mites in the greenhouse
We
enjoy your site! We are new to the greenhouse world and
have ordered seeds and started some greenhouse tomato recently. We
struggle with temperature, but maintain about 50 at night.
We have noticed “mites”. What should we
do? I have heard we need to strip the greenhouse, spray
with bleach? Any advise would be great. The
tomatos I am growing are only
costing me about $40 per month
in electric… haha. I hope they are worth it. Please provide
your thoughts and keep the information
on the site coming.
Daryl L.
Hello,
Daryl! Thank you for visiting my website.
If
you have a spider mite problem, your greenhouse atmosphere
is TOO DRY. Damage
caused by spider mites shows as numerous
tiny white or yellow speckles on leaves,
progressing (in severe infestations) to fine "silk" or webs on leaves
which collects dust, and so many mites on the plants that they are easily spotted.
The
first thing to do is spray your plants with jets of water.
Be sure to get the undersides of the leaves also. It would
indeed be a good idea to clean up the greenhouse. I would
not use bleach, however. Bleach is a very harsh chemical
and will kill everything.
Good bugs
have an important place in a greenhouse. I especially appreciate the good
work that my greenhouse spiders do. Use mild soap and warm water and scrub
a little.
(This reminds me that I need to do just that in my own greenhouse.)
The
second thing I would do is get some neem oil or horticultural
oil
(Ultra Fine), mix with water and spray on all plant surfaces.
These work by smothering
insects and their eggs, but are not toxic to beneficials such as spiders,
ladybugs and bees. Be sure to spray the undersides of the leaves. This
will get any
spider mites that were not destroyed by the jets of water. These are available
at Charley's
Greenhouse You may need to repeat applications to maintain control.
(Follow instructions provided with the oil.)
Third,
if you have a really bad infestation, get some predatory
mites such as Phytoseiulus persimilis
to release in your greenhouse. BioControl
Network and GrowQuest.com are
a couple of possible sources. (Also they
are available at Charley's Greenhouse.)
Finally,
since I installed a mist system in my greenhouse, I have
not once had a
spider mite problem, plants thrive, and my orchids bloom abundantly.
Hope
this helps!
- Sherry
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Bessie (left) and little Alice exploring their
tiny grass park. |
Build a potting
bench
Your
back will thank you for building this bench, and potting
plants up to the next size will be a pleasure. (My own
bench even doubles as a buffet table during the summer.
A smooth finish makes it easy to clean off.)
Many
thanks to Mike McClure for his contribution of this bench
design, detailed and fully illustrated instructions,
and parts
list. |
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